Customizing a Custom ’69 Chevy or two


-A Scale-Master Project-

Customizing a Custom ’69 Chevy or Two???

Author:       Mark D. Jones aka Scale-Master
Vehicles Needed:     HWs ’69 Chevy Casting

Special Tools:     Scale-Master Decal Sheet – See bottom of page

Rating:       Beginner/Novice
I started with the Custom ’69 Chevy Pick Up.


I drilled out the rivet in the rear of the chassis with a cordless drill and an 11/64ths inch diameter drill bit. You may want to use a vise to be safe.


These are the pieces after it is disassembled.


I sawed the front of the roof first since the A-pillars are weaker than the rear corners of the cab, and I didn’t want to bend or break the windshield frame. Then I sawed off the roof just a hair above the door window line.



I filed the back of the cab flat as well as the top of the bed rails and shaped the curve of the windshield into the top edge of the frame with a half-round jewelers file. You can see a hairline fracture at the base of the left windshield pillar. At the time I took the photo, I didn’t notice it.


It fell off when I took it out of the stripper. I thought I had fractured it, so I got another truck and repeated the previous steps.


I was surprised when I took the second one out of the stripper and saw it too was cracked all the way through in the same place. Apparently this is the point the metal comes together during the casting process and isn’t quite hot enough to make a solid fill. No problem, until you cut the top off.


I used super glue to cement it back together from the inside. The fit is loose enough around the dash and glass that it makes for an easy repair even if you leave a little extra glue on the inside as reinforcement.


After cleaning up the rest of the casting lines, I shot it with gray sandable primer. Two thin coats, letting them dry in between. I did not do any sanding on the primer.


The first truck that lost it’s windshield frame received a bed cover made of 0.040 thick sheet styrene plastic. It was cemented on with super glue from the inside.


I decided to change the wheels on this truck so I used a dental pick and bent the tabs away from the axles and removed them. A small screwdriver would work also.


I turned new Moon discs out of 6061 aluminum on my lathe and attached them to a set of equal sized smaller wheels from the recycling bin with super glue.


Back to the second truck, I shot it Testors Classic Black (gloss).


When you repaint one of these trucks, don’t forget to paint the back of the cab / inside bed area to match.


When the black dried somewhat, (a few hours), I airbrushed just the nose area white. The black was not dry enough to handle, but dry enough to safely shoot the white over.


After the body dried overnight, I applied the decals I made for the hood and the sides and let them dry. I carefully airbrushed white pearl over the white areas. A small amount of over spray on the center of the hood, (visible in the picture) was hand painted over with gloss black.


The windshield needed to be separated from the rest of the glass. I used a sharp X-acto knife and repeatedly scored along the top edge in the recess of the window until I cut all the way through. Be very careful not to push hard. You could slip and cut yourself or maybe worse, ruin the part! Just kidding, but let the knife do the work and it will be a lot easier in the long run.


Note: Resist the urge to twist the windshield off after you have scored most of the way through, that could also damage the part.

The first trucks body was shot overall with white lacquer and then I airbrushed fluorescent yellow lacquer over part of it, leaving a soft blend. The roof of a Jester was found in the recycle bin and trimmed a little around the front to make it fit onto the truck. It’s a pretty easy modification to do. The window areas were masked with masking tape, and it too was shot fluorescent yellow over the white base.


The rearmost portion of it was then airbrushed with a custom lime green enamel mix I made for it.


The grille part of the chassis was masked and painted the same color too.


When the green had dried (it took most of the day), I cemented the Jester roof onto the Chevy body with super glue.


The custom decals I made for it were applied, and when they dried, I painted the taillight panel, door handles and bed steps silver. I then painted the taillight panel transparent red. Then body was clear coated with a two part automotive clear. (Shown the next day.)


The round (brakes?) molded to the chassis had to be removed to lower the truck and use the new smaller wheels. You can see the difference between the two chassis. I used a pair of diagonal cutters to snip them off and an X-acto knife to clean up the cut edge.


A piece made of 0.030 thick styrene plastic was used to hold the front axle in place in the chassis. The front was lowered as far as it could be, and still roll. The tabs cast on to the bottom of the bed to set the ride height were removed by bending them off with pliers. A new block was made to replace them with three pieces of styrene to center the rear axle in the wheel wells and make the truck sit at the right attitude. Small “ears” were glued onto the chassis to keep the rear wheels from sliding back and forth sideways.


I painted the exhaust tips chrome silver. When all was dry, I set the rear wheels in place and reassembled the body and chassis.





Back to the second truck. The same trim details were painted just like on the first truck, plus the windshield frames and the door window sills were also done in silver. I used Testors Chrome Silver. I also did the bed in wood and chrome with my own decals. When dry, it too was clear coated.


I masked off and painted the interior parts a light tan. After dry fitting it, I decided I wanted a darker color for the floor, so I shot it brown.



The dash part of the interior bucket was also sprayed the darker brown. The glove box, instrument cluster and steering column were hand painted silver, and the gauges, steering wheel and glove box button were done in black.


The Details in the dash, interior and in the bed can be seen here.




When everything on this one was dry, it was put back together too.



There you have it. The black truck uses flame decals that are very similar to some of the decals on my new Decal sheet, which is now available. You can check out my web page for more information about buying the Decal sheet.

Mark D. Jones, Scale-Master


Leave a Reply