Custom Nomadder What


-A Scale-Master Project-

Custom Nomadder What

Author:       Mark D. Jones aka Scale-Master
Vehicles Needed:     HWs Nomadder What casting

Special Tools:     Scale-Master Decal Sheet – See bottom of the page for Details

Rating:       Beginner/Novice
This is a pretty easy custom to do. I started with the First Edition Nomadder What.



I drilled out the rivet with a cordless drill slowly. For safety reasons, I recommend using a vise to hold the car.


Here are the parts. You have to squeeze the side windows in a little to get them to pop out. Push the rear tab forward to get the rear window out.


I wiped the body down with lacquer thinner and removed the tampos. Wipe the whole body down so it won’t fisheye when you repaint it. This one isn’t getting stripped before repainting.


Mask off the front wheels and the bottom of the chassis at the bumper with masking tape.



Make sure you mask off far enough back to protect the chassis from over spray. I used a spray can of Tamiya Bright Red.



The body was of course shot at the same time. Don’t try to make this paint cover in one shot, build it up in about 3 coats, shown here.


Paint the tail lights by hand with Stop Light Red, And the head lights with gloss white. I used the same lacquer I’ll use on the roof.



Mask the window part of the rear roof clear piece off with masking tape.


Spray the white, and carefully remove the masking tape and set aside to dry. I airbrushed this part.


When it was dry, I snapped the roof back on to the body. Since I am going to clear coat it later, I didn’t want to worry about chipping it by snapping back in over the clear. I applied checkered flame decals from the Scale-Master Decal Sheet (#6201) to both sides in the cove area. Wet the area with water before putting the decals on. That will make it much easier to slide and maneuver it into the desired position. When you have it where you want it, carefully blot it dry. I use paper towels and Q-tips.


Notice it doesn’t match the angle, yet…


About 5 minutes after the decal was applied, I took a very sharp No.11 X-acto knife and cut along the edge of the front of the cove and lifted out the piece of decal to make a perfect fit.


Just let the contour guide the knife, not much pressure is needed, let the knife do the work.


I also applied another small set of checkered flames to the rear fenders and a set of white Rally Stripes to the hood and rear of the car. MVC-165


You can see where I’ve masked off the inside of the rear window with masking tape to make sure no over spray gets inside. That way the windows will still be crystal clear after it’s clear coated.


Here it is after it has been sprayed with Testors Top Coat Enamel. It needs to be set aside and left to dry for about a week to cure with this clear.


The parts were reassembled and small dab of CA glue was used to hold it together where the rivet was drilled out.






Mark D. Jones, Scale-Master

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