Another Customized Deora II

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-A Scale-Master Project-

….Another Customized Deora II

Author:       Mark D. Jones aka Scale-Master

 

Vehicles Needed:     HWs FE Deora

Special Tools:     Scale-Master Decal Sheet – See bottom of the page for Details

Rating:       Beginner/Novice

I started with a FE Deora II.

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I drilled out the rivet with sharp 3/16 drill bit in a cordless drill. Be careful not to go off center and drill out a chunk of the plastic chassis. Let the drill do the work.

**Note from the Editor–I would use a vise. Use Care!!

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To remove the wheels on this style of chassis, I use a dental pick to get under and pull the tabs away from the axles, you could use a very small screwdriver too.

You can usually snap the wheels back in and bend the tabs back over when you’re reassembling it. I’m changing the wheels on this one and cutting the axles, so that won’t work on this project.

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Here is the disassembled Deora II.

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These are the wheels I’m putting on it. They came from a JL Mustang II I already customized. The one on the left is how it comes, I’ve already painted the center of the one on the right a metallic gray color.

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Here they are mounted to the chassis. I had to narrow the axles by cutting about 1/8 of an inch out of the center of them. A small drop of super glue (I used Zap brand) in the center holds them in now.

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I put the main body casting in the stripper over night to get the paint off and did some cleaning up of the casting lines with a rat tail file and some 320 grit sandpaper.

Also shown are the triangular filler panels I made of sheet styrene plastic, about 0.030 thick. I cut them out with a straight edge and an X-Acto knife.

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Here the panels are shown attached to the body with a small amount of super glue.

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This picture shows how they look after I initially shaped them to fit the contour of the body using 320 and 400 grit wet sandpaper.

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I put coat of primer on it and let dry it for several hours, actually overnight. Always let your primer dry thoroughly before sanding. It looks good a first glance but…

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….. when sanded out, but you can see high and low spots. The high spots were sanded off and the low spots were filled with putty.

On this one I used Tamiya modeling putty. The picture shows it after one more thin coat of primer and the final wet sanding with 400 grit paper.

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Here it is with the color coat. I used a lacquer which has extremely good covering characteristics. Usually you’d want to have a uniform base coat before shooting the color coat, especially the lighter colors. I used my Paasche VL airbrush for spraying. You also want to be careful when spraying lacquers over raw plastic, they can etch, craze or even outright eat plastic.

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I’ve applied the decals I made for it. I thought a new headlight and grille style would give it a better personality. The tribal tipped flames fade from silver to yellow gold to golden red.

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A quick clear coat to protect the decals from masking and handling. I used automotive two part clear slightly reduced. It dried overnight.

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This shows it still masked off from painting the flat black on the bed area. I used Testors for the black.

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And with the tape off, viola!

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To make the window frames, I took my X-Acto knife and shaved the paint around the window openings down to the metal.

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Here it is with the windows installed and the chassis attached. With those ’60s-70s wheels, it was just begging for some white letters on the tires.

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I built this one as a hauler for the soap box derby car I had already finished. It came out of the back of the Nomadder What …… with a little coaxing.

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I machined the wheels for it, (like the Mo’ Scoot except simpler and much smaller) and did some photo-etched detailing in the cockpit.

Yes, it rolls too. Unfortunately, I didn’t photograph it’s progress as it was made.

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Here’s a rear view showing the new taillights. I brush painted the engine exhaust area trim with the same yellow paint, and gave the engine a wash of black to make it look more defined.

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And one more for the road…

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—Mark Jones, Scale-Master

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